Formulation and Physical Evaluation of Biocellulose Sheet Mask Loaded Mulberry (Morus alba) Root Essence as Antioxidant as Cosmetic Preparation
Abstrak
Abstract
Biocellulose (BC), a natural polymer from bacteria fermentation, is one of the new delivery systems in cosmetic applications with its advantages such as biodegradability, compatibility, and high skin permeability. Due to their antioxidant activity, Mulberry (Morus alba) roots containing oxyresveratrol have the potential as an anti-aging agent. This research aims to know the formulation of BC sheet mask loaded Morus alba essence extracted with NADES-UAE method, physical evaluation, and antioxidant activity. Morus alba root extract was formulated into three formulas of essence preparation with different concentrations of gel base CMC Na (0.5; 1; 1.5%) and evaluated based on their physical properties. BC sheet mask produced from Acetobacter xylinum was formulated with different concentrations of sucrose, acetic acid glacial, and ammonium sulfate. The best BC formula was loaded with essence and physically evaluated. Antioxidant activity was tested in vitro using the DPPH method. The results showed that BC formulated as a facial sheet mask had good physical properties: thickness of 0.51-1.48 mm, water hold capacity of 64.77%, pH of 7.19, and swelling capacity of 168%. Morus alba essence formula of F2 provides the best physical evaluation: viscosity 800 mPas, pH 6.45, spreadability 7.4 cm, and good homogeneity. The essence also showed no physical changes on stability testing. Antioxidant activity testing of Morus alba roots extract and essence formulation shows the inhibition of free radicals. BC-loaded Morus alba roots essence extracted NADES method can be applied as an antioxidant agent for promising cosmetics in the future.
Key words: antioxidant, biocellulose, Morus alba, NADES-UAE, sheet mask
Formulasi dan Evaluasi Fisik Sheet Mask Bioselulosa Mengandung Essence Mulberry (Morus alba) sebagai Kosmetika Antioksidan
Abstrak
Bioselulosa adalah polimer alam yang didapatkan dari fermentasi bakteri merupakan teknologi penghantaran kosmetik baru untuk sheet mask. Sheet Mask bioselulosa lebih ramah lingkungan, kompatibel dan memiliki permeabilitas yang baik pada kulit. Akar Morus alba telah diteliti mengandung senyawa yang memiliki aktivitas antioksidan dan menjadi kandidat bahan aktif alami dalam suatu sediaan kosmetik. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui formulasi dan evaluasi fisik sheet mask bioselulosa yang mengandung essence ekstrak Morus alba, serta aktivitas antioksidannya. Serbuk akar Morus alba yang diekstraksi dengan metode NADES-UAE diformulasikan menjadi tiga formula sediaan essence dengan konsentrasi basis gel CMC Na yang berbeda (0,5; 1; 1,5%). Sheet mask bioselulosa yang dihasilkan dari Acetobacter xylinum diformulasikan dengan konsentrasi sukrosa, asam asetat glasial, dan amonium sulfat yang berbeda dan dilakukan evaluasi fisik. Aktivitas antioksidan sediaan diuji secara in vitro menggunakan metode DPPH. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa sheet mask bioselulosa yang diformulasikan mempunyai sifat fisik yang baik: ketebalan 0,51-1,48 mm, kapasitas menahan air 64,77%, pH 7,19, dan kapasitas pengembangan 168%. Formula essence ekstrak akar Morus alba F2 memberikan hasil evaluasi fisik terbaik: viskositas 800 mPas, pH 6,45, daya sebar 7,4 cm, dan homogenitas yang baik. Sediaan essence juga tidak menunjukkan perubahan fisik pada pengujian stabilitas. Uji aktivitas antioksidan sediaan menunjukkan adanya penghambatan terhadap radikal bebas. Sheet mask bioselulosa mengandung essence ekstrak akar Morus alba yang diekstraksi dengan metode NADES dapat diterapkan sebagai agen antioksidan untuk kosmetik yang menjanjikan di masa depan.
Kata kunci: antioksidan, bioselulosa, Morus alba, NADES-UAE, sheet mask
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.24198/ijpst.v12i2.54728
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