Email Artikel ini 
Review: Potensi Minyak Biji Sacha Inchi Sebagai Anti-aging dalam Formula Kosmetik
Abstrak
Kulit merupakan lapisan pelindung tubuh dari pengaruh luar seperti polusi, paparan sinar matahari dan radikal bebas yang dapat menyebabkan kerusakan kulit. Proses perusakan kulit oleh radikal bebas ini mengakibatkan kerusakan struktur maupun lapisan kulit pada lapisan dermis sehingga mengakibatkan kulit menjadi kehilangan elastisitas dan akhirnya menjadi keriput, sehingga untuk menahan efek buruk dari radikal bebas tersebut, salah satu cara yang dapat dilakukan adalah merawat kulit dengan menggunakan antioksidan. Antioksidan dapat menginhibisi terjadinya reaksi oksidasi sel sehingga dapat mengurangi kerusakan sel, dan terdapat dalam beberapa bentuk yaitu vitamin, mineral, dan senyawa metabolit sekunder yang terdapat pada tumbuhan. Salah satu tanaman yang dapat digunakan sebagai bahan aktif antioksidan adalah minyak biji sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis). Tujuan penulisan review artikel ini adalah memberikan informasi dan gambaran mengenai potensi minyak biji sacha inchi sebagai anti-aging dalam formula kosmetik. Review artikel ini menggunakan metode penelitian komparatif dengan mengumpulkan berbagi sumber pustaka primer dari 29 jurnal penelitian. Hasil review mengindikasikan bahwa minyak biji sacha inchi memiliki aktivitas sebagai antioksidan dengan kandungan senyawa kimia yaitu omega-3, omega 6, omega 9, vitamin E, vitamin A, tanin, fitosterol, terpenoid, senyawa fenolik, dan terpenoid. Dengan demikian berdasarkan hasil telaah pustaka yang dilakukan dapat disimpulkan bahwa minyak sacha inchi memiliki potensi untuk digunakan sebagai anti-aging dalam formula kosmetik.
Kata Kunci
Teks Lengkap:
PDFReferensi
Daftar Pustaka
Barel A, Paye M, Maibach H. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. Third ed. New York: Informa Healthcare USA Inc; 2009.
Purwaningsih S, Ella S, Tika A. Formula Skin Lotion dengan Penambahan Karagenan dan Antioksidan Alami Dari Rhizopora mucronata Lamk. Journal Akuatika. 2014; 5(1): 55-62.
Hernani, Raharjo M. Tanaman Berkhasiat Antioksidan. Jakarta: Penebar Swadaya; 2005.
Gonzalez-Aspajo G, Belkhelfa H, Haddioui-Hbabi L, Bourdy G, Deharo E. Sacha Inchi Oil (Plukenetia volubilis L.), effect on adherence of Staphylococus aureus to human skin explant and keratinocytes in vitro. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2015;171:330-334.
Puangpronpitag D, Tankitjanon P, Sumalee A, Konsue A. Phytochemical Screening and Antioxidant Activities of the Seedling Extracts from Inca Peanut Plukenetia volubilis. Pharmacognosy Journal. 2021;13(1):52-58.
Hadzich A, Gross G, Leimbach M, Ispas A, Bund A, Flores S. Characterization of Plukenetia volubilis L. fatty acid-based alkyd resins. Polymer Testing; 2020.
Chirinos R, Necochea O, Pedreschi R, Campos D. Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) shell: an alternative source of phenolic compounds and antioxidants. International Journal of Food Science and Technology. 2016; 51(4): 986-993.
Murargo, Y. Potensi Kosmetik Natural Indonesia dan Persyaratan Berkelanjutan Sebagai Referensi Pasar di Uni Eropa. Belgia: Atase Keuangan KBRI Brussel; 2021.
Brinckmann J. Market Analysis For Three Peruvian Natural Ingredients. Geneva: International Trade Center; 2013.
Chirinos R, Zuloeta G, Pedreschi R, Mignolet E, Larondelle Y, Campos D. Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis): A seed source of polyunsaturated fatty acids, tocopherols, phytosterols, phenolic compounds and antioxidant capacity. Food Chemistry. 2013;141(3):1732-1739.
Chirinos R, Pedreschi R, Domínguez G, Campos D. Comparison of the physico- chemical and phytochemical characteristics of the oil of two Plukenetia species. Food Chemistry. 2015;173:1203-1206.
Herrera-Calderon O, Arroyo-Acevedo J, Chavez-Asmat R, Rojas-Armas J, Enciso-Roca E, Cerrate V et al. Effect of Sacha Inchi Oil (Plukenetia volubilis L.) on Genotoxicity in Mice (Mus musculus) and Subchronic Toxicity in Goldfish (Carassius auratus). Pharmacognosy Journal. 2019;11(6s):1549-1557.
Bueno-Borges L, Sartim M, Gil C, Sampaio S, Rodrigues P, Regitano-d’Arce M. Sacha inchi seeds from sub-tropical cultivation: effects of roasting on antinutrients, antioxidant capacity and oxidative stability. Journal of Food Science and Technology. 2018;55(10):4159-4166.
Mai H, Nguyen D, Thuong Nhan N, Bach L. Physico-Chemical Properties of Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) Seed Oil from Vietnam. Asian Journal of Chemistry. 2019;32(2):335-338.
Benitez R, Coronell C, Martin J. Chemical Characterizaction Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia Volubilis) Seed: Oleaginosa Promising From the Colombian Amazon. International Journal of Current Science Research and Review. 2018; 1(1): 11- 22.
Cisneros F, Paredes D, Arana A, Cisneros-Zevallos L. Chemical Composition, Oxidative Stability and Antioxidant Capacity of Oil Extracted from Roasted Seeds of Sacha-Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 2014; 62(22): 5191-5197.
Ramos-Escudero F, Muñoz A, Ramos Escudero M, Viñas-Ospino A, Morales M, Asuero A. Characterization of commercial Sacha inchi oil according to its composition: tocopherols, fatty acids, sterols, triterpene and aliphatic alcohols. Journal of Food Science and Technology. 2019;56(10):4503-4515.
Valencia A, Romero-Orejon F, Vinas-Ospino A, Barriga-Rodriguez D, Munoz A, Ramos-Escudero F. Sacha Inchi Seed (Plukenetia volubilis L.) Oil: Terpenoids. Peru: IntechOpen; 2020.
Zanqui A, da Silva C, de Morais D, Santos J, Ribeiro S, Eberlin M et al. Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) oil composition varies with changes in temperature and pressure in subcritical extraction with n-propane. Industrial Crops and Products. 2016;87:64-70.
Chasquibol N, del Aguila C, Yacono J, Guinda A, Moreda W, Gomez-Coca R, i Characterization of glyceridic and unsaponifiable compounds of Sacha inchi (Plukenetia huayllabambana L.) oils. Journal Agricultural Food Chemistry. 2014; 62(41): 10162-10169.
Paucar-Menacho L, Salvador-Reyes R, Guillén-Sánchez J, Capa-Robles J, Moreno-Rojo C. Comparative study of physical-chemical features of sacha inchi oil (Plukenetia volubilis l.), olive oil (Olea europaea) and fish oil. Scientia agropecuaria. 2015;:279-290.
Vicente J, de Carvalho M, Garcia-Rojas E. Fatty acids profile of Sacha Inchi oil and blends by 1H NMR and GC–FID. Food Chemistry. 2015;181:215-221.
Penagos-Calvete D, Duque V, Marimon C, Parra D, Restrepo-Arango S, Scherf- Clavel O et al. Glycerolipid Composition and Advanced Physicochemical Considerations of Sacha Inchi Oil toward Cosmetic Products Formulation. Cosmetics. 2019;6(4):70.
Liu Q, Xu Y, Zhang P, Na T, Tang T, Shi Y. Chemical composition and oxidative evolution of Sacha Inchi (Plukentia volubilis L.) oil from Xishuangbanna (China). Grasas Y Aceites. 2014; 65(1).
25. Kyaw T, New T, Khaing M, San P, Kyaing K, Thet T, Htun E. Studies on Nutritional Compositions of Sacha Inchi Seed and Physicochemical Characteristics of Sacha Inchi Oil. International European Extended Enablement in Science, Engineering & Management (IEEESEM). 2019; 7(8).
26. Maurer N, Hatta-Sakoda B, Pascual-Chagman G, Rodriguez-Saona L. Characterization and authentication of a novel vegetable source of omega-3 fatty acids, sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) oil. Food Chemistry. 2012;134(2):1173-1180.
27. Hidalgo L, Rogel C, Bermeo S. Characterization of Sacha Inchi Seed Oil (Plukenetia Volubilis) From Canton San Vincente, Manabi, Ecuador Obtained By Non-thermal Extrusion Processes. La Granja: Revista de Ciencias de la Vida. 2019; 30(2): 70-79. (Belum).
28. Poomanee W, Kongin K, Sriputorn K, Leelapornpisid P. Application of factorial experimental design for optimization and development of color lipstick containing antioxidant-rich Sacha inchi oil. Pakistan Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2021; 34(4): 1437-1444. (Belum)
29. Soimee W, Nakyai W, Charoensit P, Grandmottet F, Worasakwutiphong S, Phimnuan P et al. Evaluation of moisturizing and irritation potential of sacha inchi oil. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2019;19(4):915-924
30. Banov D, A S. Permeation Enhancers For topical Formulation. s.l., WIPO Patent Application WO2012109151; 2012.
31. Triana-Maldonado D, Torijano-Gutiérrez S, Giraldo-Estrada C. Supercritical CO 2 extraction of oil and omega-3 concentrate from Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) from Antioquia, Colombia. Grasas y Aceites. 2017; 68(1).
32. Jitpinit S, Siraworakun C, Sookklay Y, Nuithitikul K. Enhancement of omega-3 content in sacha inchi seed oil extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide in semi- continuous process. Heliyon. 2022; 8(1).
33. GBIF. Plukenetia volubilis L.[diunduh 30 Mei 2022]. Tersedia dari: https://www.gbif.org/occurrence/3325514677
34. Solomon J, Stimmel H (2021). Tropicos Specimen Data. Missouri Botanical Garden. Occurrence dataset https://doi.org/10.15468/hja69f accessed via GBIF.org on 2022-05-30. https://www.gbif.org/occurrence/1257622032
35. GBIF. Plukenetia volubilis L.[diunduh 30 Mei 2022]. Tersedia dari: https://www.gbif.org/occurrence/3321061411
36. GBIF. Plukenetia volubilis L.[diunduh 30 Mei 2022]. Tersedia dari: https://www.gbif.org/occurrence/2596327877
37. GBIF. Plukenetia volubilis L.[diunduh 30 Mei 2022]. Tersedia dari: https://www.gbif.org/occurrence/1949981386
38. GBIF. Plukenetia volubilis L.[diunduh 30 Mei 2022]. Tersedia dari: https://www.gbif.org/occurrence/1949980106
39. Goyal A, Tanwar B, Kumar Sihag M, Sharma V. Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.): An emerging source of nutrients, omega-3 fatty acid and phytochemicals. Food Chemistry. 2022; 373:131459.
40. WHO. Codex Alimentarius Commission: Part II- Amandement/Revision to the Codex Standard for Named Vegetable Oils (CXS 210-1999) - Inclusion Of Sacha Inchi Oil. WHO: Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations; 2021.
41. Cárdenas Sierra D, Gómez Rave L, Soto J. Biological Activity of Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis Linneo) and Potential Uses in Human Health: A Review. Food Technology and Biotechnology. 2021;59(3):253-266.
42. Wang S, Zhu F, Kakuda Y. Sacha inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.): Nutritional composition, biological activity, and uses. Food Chemistry. 2018;265:316-328.
43. Arroyo-Acevedo J, Herrera-Calderon O, Cisneros-Hilario C, Chávez-Asmat R, Anampa-Guzmán A, Enciso-Roca E et al. Antimutagenic Effect of Plukenetia volubilis (Sacha inchi) Oil in BALB/c Mice. Annual Research & Review in Biology. 2018;24(3):1-8.
44. Baumann L, Shagari S, Weisberg E. Dermatology. New York: McGraw Hill; 2009.
45. Jung J, Kwon H, Hong J, Yoon J, Park M, Jang M et al. Effect of Dietary Supplementation with Omega-3 Fatty Acid and Gamma-linolenic Acid on Acne Vulgaris: A Randomised, Double-blind, Controlled Trial. Acta Dermato Venereologica. 2014;94(5):521-525.
Refbacks
- Saat ini tidak ada refbacks.
